(Pass)Over It

Last night, Jess and I made the best of things, setting up a seder for just the two of us on our living room floor:

seder

Though we had longer haggadot, and even some shorter ones, yesterday morning my mother sent along a Coronavirus-updated version of Shoshana Silberman’s A Family Haggadah, which we had used in my childhood.  And, somehow, that seemed like the right choice.

So, occasionally bolstering with prayers (like birkat hamazon) and songs (whether chad gadya, or ‘Take Us Out of Egypt” [to the tune of “Take Me Out To The Ball Game”]) and readings pulled from other books, we made our way through at a moderate pace, stopping to round up the ceremonial items I’d forgotten to bring out initially, or to pull various items out of the oven, or to go off on weird conversational tangents that had nothing to do with Passover at all until we remembered what we were doing and circled back to the seder.

We opted against opening our hall door for Elijah, singing out the open window instead.  And, though uniformly delicious, our menu was a bit less than traditional, working with the abridged ingredients we’d actually been able to round up.  Still, all in, I’d call it a great success.

We’re repeating tonight, this time with my parents (and possibly other family members?) on Zoom. And, yes, l’shana haba’ah and everything.  But, honestly, even in the midst of Coronavirus and lockdown and whatever else, I’d say this year, right here, is already pretty excellent, too.

Undelivered

I suppose it was fortuitous that I was having moral angst about the Shipt grocery order I managed to put in two days ago.  Because, after it was delayed one hour at a time for more than twelve hours running, Shipt eventually just canceled entirely.  So, yesterday, Jess and I strapped on our PPE, and headed to Whole Foods for a gigantic grocery stock-up.  Fortunately, the shelves were surprisingly fully stocked, and we had brought along a rolling grocery cart, my large backpack, and several giant IKEA bags.  The half-mile walk home was a bit of an ordeal, but I’m now at least feeling better about the state of our pantry, and my ability to pull together ‘real’ Passover seders tonight and tomorrow.  The remaining issue, however, is produce: while, each week, we’ve carefully plotted out our menus to waste as little as possible, and to stagger dishes by the shelf-life of ingredients, after five or six days, we’re inevitably down to just potatoes and onions.

So, I was very happy to discover this list on Eater.com, of restaurant suppliers now delivering directly to consumers.  Unlike pre-existing grocery delivery services, all these still seem to have plenty of excess capacity.  And, also unlike pre-existing grocery delivery services, I can actually feel good about ordering from them; doing so would be a great way to support the New York restaurant infrastructure.  Will post with a review / walk-through of my experience if I manage to wedge in an order at the start of next week as hoped.

Pass(over)able

While I continue to have all kinds of moral angst about online grocery shopping during this pandemic (I’m not in a high-risk group myself, and am therefore just taking advantage of the fact that I can afford to offload my risk to a less privileged low bidder), I nonetheless bowed to COVID worries this week, and ordered a big load of stuff from Fairway using Shipt, the only service I’ve found that currently has even intermittent delivery availability in NYC at the moment.  (Given their business model, it’s worth returning repeatedly throughout the day if there are no current slots, as new ones regularly open up.)

While it’s slated to arrive in a couple of hours (though the delivery window has already been twice pushed back), given the picked-clean shelves of grocery stores, I can’t imagine more than a small fraction of what we ordered will actually show up.  Still, with some creativity, and our already-stocked pantry, I think we’ll be mostly fine.

The biggest questions are around Passover, which kicks off this Wednesday evening.  A month and a half back, when I stocked up to weather this all, I didn’t really take into account the flour content of shelf-stable options, and I definitely didn’t grab any jars of gefilte fish.  So, though my parents have floated the idea of a Zoom seder, it’s unclear whether we’ll actually have any of the ingredients needed for even just the seder plate, much less traditional dinner dishes like brisket or matzo-ball soup.

At the same time, if the point of the holiday is to remember when our ancestors were slaves in Egypt – which, in Hebrew, translates literally to ‘a narrow place’ – then perhaps a quarantined version of the holiday will be as good of a reminder of that feeling as possible, and a success regardless of the culinary details.

Next year, if not in Jerusalem, then at least outside my apartment.

Cook the Quarantine: Spaghetti with Tomato and Basil

To keep the theme going, another favorite simple pasta: a refined and authentically Italian spaghetti and tomato sauce.

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Spaghetti with Tomato and Basil

Ingredients:

  • 28oz can whole San Marzano tomatoes
  • 1/4 cup, 2 tablespoons, and 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, divided
  • 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 2 stems of basil, leaves on, and 4-8 leaves cut into chiffonade, divided
  • 6 whole cloves garlic
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon red chili flakes
  • 1# spaghetti

Directions:

  • In a mesh strainer over a bowl, roughly crush tomatoes, removing seeds with your thumb.  Set aside crushed tomatoes, reserve strained juices, discard seeds.
  • Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, transfer tomatoes to the pot, add salt, cook 5 minutes, then smash with a potato masher.
  • Add reserved juices to the sautéing tomatoes, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook for 30-45 minutes, smashing and stirring occasionally.
  • While the tomatoes cook, heat the 1/4 cup of olive oil in a small saucepan over low heat. Add garlic cloves, basil stems, and chili flakes. When the garlic is lightly browned, remove from heat, allow to cool 5 minutes, then strain the oil into the tomato mixture, and discard the browned garlic / basil / pepper flakes.
  • Boil a large pot of water, salted enough to taste like the ocean.
  • Cook the spaghetti until just short of al dente.  Reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water, then drain the pasta (don’t rinse it).
  • Add pasta to the tomato mixture, along with reserved cooking water and final 2 tablespoons of olive oil.  Cook, tossing, until the sauce coats the pasta.
  • Remove from heat, and add butter, cheese, and chiffonaded basil.  Toss, season with salt and pepper, and serve immediately.